The Philadelphia Peña and Taurino Club
Our Guide to the Festival of San Fermìn, Pamplona
Places We Always Eat
Some misfortunate few go to San Fermín to drink. We don’t. We go to eat. A lot. And well. Basque cuisine is among the most celebrated in the world, and Pamplona and its surrounding towns lay out an unparalleled spread. It is in this arena that Pamplona and Philadelphia are harmoniously joined. Afterall, Philly isn't just cheesesteaks. As in Pamplona, bona fide, local, and splendid Philadelphia dining opportunities are known only by the locals. Don’t eat like a tourist – watch where the locals are eating dinner. So slowly put down that damp bocadillo, iron up your cleanest pair of white pants, and head out to:
Restaurante Erburu is located on Calle San Lorenzo, 19-21, and is the Official Restaurant of the Philadelphia Peña and Taurino Club. With a long bar for pintxos (the Basque equivalent of tapas) out front, Restaurante Erburu has a small and warm dining area in the back where it is unlikely you will ever see another tourist. Family-run, the kitchen will make meals for you "off menu," if desired. We go for the veal smothered in gorgonzola, snails, and the stuffed peppers. We love this place.
The Official Peña Restaurant Breakfst at Cafe Iruna Translating the menu at Rest. San Fermin
Make reservations beforehand at the formal Josetxo off Plaza Principe de Viana, 1. They have a convenient website for reservations, which should be made months before the festival. This is the Other Official Restaurant of the Philadelphia Peña and Taurino Club. I’d rather miss a morning run than our annual Monday night dinner under the stained glass of La Concha of Donostia. The restaurant staff are always more pleasant and decent to us than we could possibly deserve. We (also) love this place. Make sure you meet our lovely friend Raquel, a third generation owner, who schooled in Philadelphia. Try any of the fish, and something from the dessert menu.
At the top of our Hotel Maisonnave, on Calle Nueva is El Mirador. With tremendous views of the city, the restaurant is located in a very large single room that looks like it could easily be converted for a wedding or New Years Eve party. With events surrounding the bull fight at the hotel, it is not unusual to see a matador and his entouragee late in the evening, or famous locals, in the El Mirador dining room. Say it with me: steak.
At the bullfight, after the third (3d) bull is dragged off at the fight, you will be deafened by the sound of unwrapping tinfoil. It’s the local version of the 7th Inning Stretch. If you forgot to bring your own meal, try to look pitiful, and someone or some group will donate to your cause. However, it's best to prepare earlier in the day by going to the market behind Ayuntamiento (the town hall) after the morning run. Stock up on Basque cheese, pastry, and local fruit. Then, all you need is a clean bag and a hot bocadillo wrapped in tinfoil.
Have lunch or dinner at the secret but aptly named San Fermin, right on San Nicholas, 44. Up a flight of steps, there is a door with a big brass handle with no markings. Despite many visits, I still feel like I am going into someone’s private residence. Staffed by the kindest servers known to mankind, the restaurant is small, but space becomes available constantly throughout the day. Let me be absolutely clear. Get the homemade fig ice cream, which is commonly known as the Greatest Dessert Ever.
In the shadow of the bull ring, you will find Rodero at Arrieta, 3. If making dinner reservations for 9:30 p.m., expect some strange looks as you are the official early bird. Dining gets hot late in the evening here. Lunch is also great. The steak tartar is beautiful. As is the five (5) year aged Iberian and acorn fed jamon. This restaraunt is getting rather famous, so you should get to know Veronica Rodera at the door and in the dining room. No kidding -- mention us, and she'll set you up!
Steak Tar Tar at Rodero Cod Salad at San Fermin Lobster Salad at Europa
We love Europa located at Espoz y Mina, 11. With a Michelin Star, you will have to fight to get reservations at this restaurant. Every year we go through the same charade. We contact the restaurant nine (9) months before la fiesta, and they insist every table for every minute of every day throughout the entire festival has been reserved already. Right. Then we beg, and even pretend to cry. We promise we can use a Spanish menu, and we will eat quickly. “We don’t even need a plate,” we say. We usually go on Sunday night and wear our Famous Red Neck Ties, which cause a near riot with the staff – every year. The Foie Grois over brioche hits the spot! In 2008, I had lobster salad and the chef's special meatballs, and had one of the best meals of my life.
For a night without dinner reservations, try Dragon Real @ Pintor Crispin, 6 satisfying comfort food. Order many plates and share nicely.
If you really want to eat with only local Pamplonians, try Asador Kalean Gora at Tajonar, 29. This is a cider house where meat is roasted on open fires. The have long tables and communal seating. English speaking visitors will cause quite a stir. Great chuletas and pimientos, and very reasonable priced. It's a little outside the main part of town, but you will not be disappointed. Parking is easy and free if you drive.
OK. Rent a car. Eat a light breakfast. Head for Restaurant Asador Epeleta at Calle Aralar S/N, Lekunberri, 31870 in the Sierra de Aralar. This is another cider house, but maybe the best there is anywhere. If I had to chose one (1) place to eat a meal right now, this would be it. They will tell you the chuleta is for two people. Insist on eating the whole thing, and they will go crazy for you. Their pimientos are world class!
Peter at Europa
Restaurante Erburu is located on Calle San Lorenzo, 19-21, and is the Official Restaurant of the Philadelphia Peña and Taurino Club. With a long bar for pintxos (the Basque equivalent of tapas) out front, Restaurante Erburu has a small and warm dining area in the back where it is unlikely you will ever see another tourist. Family-run, the kitchen will make meals for you "off menu," if desired. We go for the veal smothered in gorgonzola, snails, and the stuffed peppers. We love this place.
The Official Peña Restaurant Breakfst at Cafe Iruna Translating the menu at Rest. San Fermin
Make reservations beforehand at the formal Josetxo off Plaza Principe de Viana, 1. They have a convenient website for reservations, which should be made months before the festival. This is the Other Official Restaurant of the Philadelphia Peña and Taurino Club. I’d rather miss a morning run than our annual Monday night dinner under the stained glass of La Concha of Donostia. The restaurant staff are always more pleasant and decent to us than we could possibly deserve. We (also) love this place. Make sure you meet our lovely friend Raquel, a third generation owner, who schooled in Philadelphia. Try any of the fish, and something from the dessert menu.
At the top of our Hotel Maisonnave, on Calle Nueva is El Mirador. With tremendous views of the city, the restaurant is located in a very large single room that looks like it could easily be converted for a wedding or New Years Eve party. With events surrounding the bull fight at the hotel, it is not unusual to see a matador and his entouragee late in the evening, or famous locals, in the El Mirador dining room. Say it with me: steak.
At the bullfight, after the third (3d) bull is dragged off at the fight, you will be deafened by the sound of unwrapping tinfoil. It’s the local version of the 7th Inning Stretch. If you forgot to bring your own meal, try to look pitiful, and someone or some group will donate to your cause. However, it's best to prepare earlier in the day by going to the market behind Ayuntamiento (the town hall) after the morning run. Stock up on Basque cheese, pastry, and local fruit. Then, all you need is a clean bag and a hot bocadillo wrapped in tinfoil.
Have lunch or dinner at the secret but aptly named San Fermin, right on San Nicholas, 44. Up a flight of steps, there is a door with a big brass handle with no markings. Despite many visits, I still feel like I am going into someone’s private residence. Staffed by the kindest servers known to mankind, the restaurant is small, but space becomes available constantly throughout the day. Let me be absolutely clear. Get the homemade fig ice cream, which is commonly known as the Greatest Dessert Ever.
In the shadow of the bull ring, you will find Rodero at Arrieta, 3. If making dinner reservations for 9:30 p.m., expect some strange looks as you are the official early bird. Dining gets hot late in the evening here. Lunch is also great. The steak tartar is beautiful. As is the five (5) year aged Iberian and acorn fed jamon. This restaraunt is getting rather famous, so you should get to know Veronica Rodera at the door and in the dining room. No kidding -- mention us, and she'll set you up!
Steak Tar Tar at Rodero Cod Salad at San Fermin Lobster Salad at Europa
We love Europa located at Espoz y Mina, 11. With a Michelin Star, you will have to fight to get reservations at this restaurant. Every year we go through the same charade. We contact the restaurant nine (9) months before la fiesta, and they insist every table for every minute of every day throughout the entire festival has been reserved already. Right. Then we beg, and even pretend to cry. We promise we can use a Spanish menu, and we will eat quickly. “We don’t even need a plate,” we say. We usually go on Sunday night and wear our Famous Red Neck Ties, which cause a near riot with the staff – every year. The Foie Grois over brioche hits the spot! In 2008, I had lobster salad and the chef's special meatballs, and had one of the best meals of my life.
For a night without dinner reservations, try Dragon Real @ Pintor Crispin, 6 satisfying comfort food. Order many plates and share nicely.
If you really want to eat with only local Pamplonians, try Asador Kalean Gora at Tajonar, 29. This is a cider house where meat is roasted on open fires. The have long tables and communal seating. English speaking visitors will cause quite a stir. Great chuletas and pimientos, and very reasonable priced. It's a little outside the main part of town, but you will not be disappointed. Parking is easy and free if you drive.
OK. Rent a car. Eat a light breakfast. Head for Restaurant Asador Epeleta at Calle Aralar S/N, Lekunberri, 31870 in the Sierra de Aralar. This is another cider house, but maybe the best there is anywhere. If I had to chose one (1) place to eat a meal right now, this would be it. They will tell you the chuleta is for two people. Insist on eating the whole thing, and they will go crazy for you. Their pimientos are world class!
Peter at Europa