First, you need to read “Pamplona” by Ray Mouton, which is available on Amazon.com. This book is written by someone who sincerely cares for La Fiesta, and who knows someone who can take great pictures. I have never personally met Ray, but he is an American Legend in Pamplona. His book offers small details that you might never pick up after dozens of visits. His best advice is on p. 63: “...whenever you are in doubt during Fiesta, follow the music.” My brother and I are eternally grateful to the author of this book, which made us, boots on the ground, immediately able to join in La Fiesta. We haven’t stopped since.

Second, you have more homework. Read “Running with the Bulls,” by Gary Gray, who is himself a superb runner. You will see him with his teal shirt and trucker cap (better to see him in the papers). Also available at Amazon.com, Ray’s book spills with details from his experience, and that of the “inner circle” he has formed over the decades.



Properly dressed; with Smelly the Mouse

Third, you have to buy white pants before getting to Spain. Tiny men and some women can usually find something in town (they just have a different bone structure); however, you may not show up in shorts or jeans. Just don’t do it. And don’t wear a Giants jersey to an Eagles game. There are fiesta t-shirts for sale everywhere, as are the red pañuelo (neckerchief) and sash. We buy new every year and wear them ‘til they disintegrate.

Sixth, learn some of the language. Both of them.  Pamplona’s youth know more English that I know Basque or Spanish.  But, as with any culture, a mere attempt at learning to talk as the locals will open many doors.  Or more, importantly, get you a seat at dinner.  And remember – you are not really going to Spain. You are going to Navarre, which is technically an “autonomous community” in Spain.  This means the occasional drunk will remind you you're not in Spain.  Careful yelling "Vive" anything.  And the Basque hats aren't for tourists.

They speak Basque (or Euskara).  Basque has a distinction between laminal and apical articulation for the alveolar fricatives and affricates. What does that mean? They use a lot of X’s.

Here are some basic phrases:
 
Eskerrik asko! = Thank you!
Egun on = Good morning
Egun on, bai = Standard reply to Egun on
Arratsalde on = Good evening
Gabon = Good night
Mesedez = Please
Barkatu = Excuse (me)

Other helpful phrases to translate beforehand might be:

"Please don't get blood on my white pants."  Or "I can't remember when I last had a tetanus shot."  And, "I love the taste of cobblestone in the morning." 

For more reading, you can consult renowned author MICHEL MORVAN's famous 1996 text, The Linguistic Origins of Basque (written entirely in French) which is available in Bordeaux through Presses Universitaires. Just kidding.

Fourth, you will need to bring enough money to last. Banks have weird hours during La Fiesta, and usually are loathe to cash or change anything but small amounts. ATMs exist, but are often empty or not functioning. Both banks and ATMs, when open and operational, have lines.  Some years, we have no problem.  Some years, we have to thumb it out of town for an open bank.  Remember this when visiting Pamplona: you will need a lot of money.

Fifth, go to http://www.sanfermin.com/ and read everything. Every little bit.  Obviously, we are not responsible for the content of that site, which is often NSFW.  So, Ari -- keep it at home!  Kukuxumusu (in Basque, “Kiss of the Flea,” of course) and their website are completely necessary to prepare for a Pamplona trip. They provide updates on town news, the earliest access to the festival schedule, and reflect the whole Festival vibe.  It offers the present news -- in English -- about the festivities that you cannot catch anywhere else.  They even have a little tester to measure the risk of running.

They’re funny, cool, and creative, and completely helpful.  Every year, they sponsor a “Day of the Tourist.” Visit their website. Buy their stuff.  Wear the sheep.



Ari, Properly Dressed; Guarding a Tree